Note: you should allow at least 48 hours between installation and driving / exposure to water (or longer if required by the sealant you choose).
Tools:
- sharp knife
- sealant / adhesive (I used HA6 but you might like a different product - perhaps caravan sealant)
- pliers
- side cutters or strong scissors
- Philips screwdriver
Old plug and adhesive |
Rear light lens and light unit removed - the downpipe clearly visible |
Now push the old drain plug down through the bodywork to free up the downpipe. Working through the space for the rear light unit, cut through the downpipe with the sharp knife as close as possible to the lower end of the old drain plug. Don't let the downpipe slide down and out of the bottom of the car!
Old plug removed and downpipe trimmed |
To give you an extra bit of working space, gently lift the hatch seal away from the corner and about 2 feet up the C-pillar and along the bottom edge of the hatch.
Now spend a good deal of time removing the remnants of the old drain plug and the adhesive until you have a completely clean upper surface ready to accept the new sealant.
Remove all the old sealant and get it clean! |
Thoroughly clean the outside of top 25-30mm or so of the downpipe.
Smear a very small amount of sealant on the outer surface of the down tube of the drain plug. Slide the PVC clear tube over the down tube of the drain plug until it pushes up to the top flange.
Drain plug down tube smeared with a small amount of sealant and clear PVC tube pushed up to the top flange |
Put a ring of sealant / adhesive around the hole in the bodyshell, on the top surface.
Ring of sealant/adhesive on the top side of the hole |
Drop the drain plug (with the PVC pipe fitted) through the hole in the bodyshell from the top.
Viewed from the underside, the new drain plug in position |
Working from the hole for the rear light fitting, loosely fit one of the cable ties around the PVC pipe. Pull it snug to the pipe with the pliers, but not tight. Hold the drain plug in place from the top, slide the cable tie up the PVC tube until it mates up to the underside of the bodyshell. Now fully tighten the cable tie and trim off the cable tie with side cutters / scissors.
Now smear a very small amount of sealant around the outside of the top of the downpipe. Again, holding the drain plug at the top, push the downpipe up into the lower end of the clear PVC pipe until it mates up to the bottom of the drain plug. Then fit the second cable tie around the lower end of the clear PVC pipe so it clamps the clear PVC pipe onto the downpipe. Pull the cable tie tight and trim off the end.
Cable ties in place - note the top one pushes right up against the bodyshell |
Working at the top of the drain plug, check if you need to add a little more sealant / adhesvie - the idea being to fill the gap around the drain plug top flange flush with the bodywork - then smooth it off according to the instructions on the sealant / adhesive.
Finished but not yet cured off (allow 48 hours or more if your sealant requires) |
If you removed the hatch seal to get more space to work, gently push it back into place.
Refit the multi-plug to the light unit, push the light unit back into the bodyshell then refit the lens and tighten screws (do not over tighten)! Refit battery earth lead.
Leave the car for at least 48 hours before driving or exposing to water.
NOTE: the above is guidance only. Your car or situation may differ. No responsibility is taken for the accuracy or effectiveness of these instructions - please make your own decisions on how to proceed and fit the parts.
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